Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some of the questions I'm asked most frequently. If you have a question that isn't covered here, please email me at and I'll be happy to help.

What will my rabbits be fed while they stay with you for boarding or bonding?

Whether boarding or bonding all rabbits will have a personalised care plan created for them, in which nutrition will play an important part. Your rabbits will be fed a variety of high-quality grass hays, safe natural plants and herbs, vegetables (if this is something they are used to) and Science Selective pellets. This follows best practice and recommended guidelines. I will always discuss what is the best diet for your rabbits and introduce them to this whilst they are with me, even providing you a small selection to take away.

Hays fed to your rabbits include:

Very high quality meadow hay from The Country Store
Dried grasses from

Timothy Hay from Oxbow Animal Health and

Dried wild plants from

Enrichment products from The Hay Experts and Twig & Nibble Shop

I use fenugreek crunchies as treats for hand feeding.

What bedding do you use?

I offer a range of bedding materials depending on the rabbits needs including Fitch, Back to Nature, Snowflake Wood Shavings (pine and cedar free), puppy pads and newspaper.

Will my rabbits have time outside?

I have a secure front and back garden (fences in the back garden are 6ft & 4ft, fences in the front garden are 4ft).  The run in the front garden is based on concrete. The perimeters are regularly checked for escape routes and the garden checked for poisonous plants and I grow plants that are rabbit friendly. 


Owners can choose whether their rabbits are given time on the grass but rabbits won't be allowed on the grass if they have an active E. cuniculi infection. If they are an E. cuniculi carrier they will need to be treated with Panacur prior to boarding or bonding.. 

How do you keep different groups of rabbits separate?

I have solid baby gates in each room and the doors are closed at night or when I'm out of the house. Only one owners rabbits will be in a room at any one time and the doors can be closed if owners are worried about the rabbits jumping over them.

Barriers can be put up near mesh fences so that rabbits are unable to go nose to nose or a second panel/fence can be used.

Rabbits will not exercise together.

How do you ensure a high standard of hygiene?

All boarding houses and rooms inside have flooring that can be disinfected with veterinary standard disinfectant.

What products do you use on the bunnies?

Pro-C Probiotic (complementary feed, friendly bacteria with vitamin c and dextrose for digestive support.

What do I need to do to prepare my bunnies for bonding?

All rabbits must be neutered and sprayed before they come to be bonded. I will need poo samples and to know whether they are good hay eaters,and water drinkers and whether they have had any dental work or visits due to illness. They will also need to be fully vaccinated for myxi and vhd 1 & 2.

When you drop your rabbits off please allow time for us to carry out a health check and to discuss whether the rabbits are allowed on the grass and what would happen in the unlikely event a rabbit needs to go to the vet.

What quality are the products you use?

Whether for food or beddings, toys or houses, I carefully select the suppliers I work with. 

The purple and grey rabbit house is a Birch kennel  and the blue, pink and yellow house is a Frampton Kennel,  both purchased from The large house is a full height walk in, 6ft by 10ft and the smaller house is a half height, 8ft by 4ft. 

The run in the front garden is from and the playhouse is from www.dunsterhouse. 

What do I need to know about bonding?

Here are some tips to ensure the bonding process goes as smoothly as possible.

1. Send me photos of your housing as this is relevant to post and pre bonding, including information on how separated rabbits are currently being housed and socialised
2. Let me know your rabbits routine and diet
3. Find out how much your preferred vet charges should a vet visit be required be it for illness or bonding wounds (stitches, pain relief, or just a check.). This is for the worst case scenario but it's best to be prepared.
4. If the bond doesn’t work, there are 3 options:
a) Have 2 pairs of rabbits - need to consider the cost of two set ups,  be it indoors or outdoors, vaccines and insurance plus holiday boarding prices.
b) Ideally don’t have two single rabbits but if this is your choice you will still need good set ups for each rabbit
c) Go to the Rabbit Residence Rescue/other rescue and do a swap or let them take a rabbit.
They can potentially find a more suitable partner for your rabbits to make for an easier bond.
This is all very emotional I know but if choice c) has to be made Lea  at the Rabbit Residence Rescue is amazing and finds loving homes so all rabbits will be safe with very high standards.


Can you bond a group of more than 3 rabbits for me?

Unlike when they're in the wild and live in groups for safety, domestic rabbits do not have the same needs to be in large groups for survival reasons. All their needs for food, protection from danger and so on are met by the owners. This means domestic rabbits can be very confident and also very difficult to bond in groups of more than 2-3.  If you are considering bonding a large group of rabbits please call me to discuss the circumstances and to see if it's something I can help with.

What happens if my pet requires vet care?

If I believe your rabbit requires vet care, I will call you to discuss taking your pet to specialist vet, Iain Cope at Vets4Pets Newmarket.

If deemed an emergency I must have permission (pre-authorised when you leave your rabbits with me) to take your rabbit to the vet.


All costs will be the owner's responsibility. The vet will require upfront payment, approximately £45 for an average consultation (and they will need a deposit of £75??) Ideally, owners will make contact with the vet and pay them directly.